Dining at a gourmet restaurant is fun, but I’ve always preferred finding an unexpected jewel.
One unassuming gem I really used to enjoy was the now-shuttered Krispy Krunchy Chicken located inside a liquor store in Alhambra.
Patrons generally entered to buy a Coke or a Powerball ticket — the place wasn’t even conducive to buying a meal — in a mini mall with a way-too-small parking lot. But they ended up walking away surprised by the crispy treats.
Krispy Krunchy delivered fried, yet tender and juicy breasts and wings at a reasonable price.
Krispy Krunchy is a chain, and I’ve visited other locations, also in gas stations and small retail spaces, but they’re never as good.
That’s why I was so glad to see Food columnist Jenn Harris’ recent list, ranking L.A.’s 10 best in grocery store fried chicken.
Let’s take a look at some of Harris’ favorites.
8. Ralphs
This chicken had a feathery coating that was almost powdery across the surface. But even the best dredging and frying techniques couldn’t save the chicken beneath.
The meat was bone-dry and tasteless. I stripped off pieces of their crispy skin and enjoyed them as a snack. The remaining meat I shredded and shoved into the middle of a casserole, where it belonged. Price: $5 for four pieces.
6. Gelson’s
The chicken from this gourmet grocery store looks like it was plucked from a Norman Rockwell painting.
It is the perfect specimen of poultry, with a rough surface cloaked in a pale bronze carapace. The meat was juicy throughout, underneath a shell that retained its crunch, even after a short drive home.
But it lacked any real flavor or seasoning and required copious amounts of hot sauce. And for that, it lands near the middle of the pack. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.
4. Stater Bros.
The market advertises something called Cleo & Leo chicken at the deli counter. It’s proudly displayed on the signage and the takeout boxes. The name comes from Cleo and Leo Stater, the twin brothers who started Stater Bros. markets in 1936.
Cleo & Leo chicken is beautifully crisp, with fragile, but rough skin. It tends to slide from the meat rather than hold on, leaving some bites with all the fun, and others devoid of skin.
Your hands will shine with grease, and your lap will be covered with stray fragments of crust, but you’ll be happy.
My only qualm with this chicken was the texture of the meat. It had a soft, almost artificial quality to it that was noticeable about two pieces in. If that doesn’t sound like a deal-breaker, invite Cleo & Leo to your party. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.
2. Pavilions
The Pavilions chicken possessed a multi-layered crunch that set it apart from the rest. A loud, satisfying, cracking crunch from its nubby bronzed veneer.
This is grade-A picnic chicken that survived its paper bag and 12 hours in the refrigerator. If we were to give an award based on crunch alone, Pavilions would be the victor.
The chicken was plump and tender, but the overall flavor was just shy of perfect. If someone in the back had sprinkled on a little black pepper, this could have been the winner. Maybe take the chicken home and season it yourself. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.
So, who is No. 1? You’ll have to check out the full article for the answer.
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