The man Eater.com called a “legend” from Los Angeles’ rich history of roadside hamburger stands passed away, but fans of Bill’s Burgers in Sherman Oaks are determined to keep his memory and menu alive.
Bill Elwell died July 21 at 98 — still a fixture behind the counter at his tiny eatery on Oxnard Street up until the very end.
“It’s the quintessential small business,” said Steve Balding, a fan of Bill’s since 1981. “A very small place with a very old griddle with an old man back there with a spatula.”
Over the years, Balding got to know Elwell fairly well and was intrigued by the owner’s work ethic: flipping burgers from early morning until early afternoon, rain or shine. Like the ancient cash register on the counter and the equally vintage-quality griddle — probably from the 1930s, Balding said — Elwell was a throwback to a different time in the city.
But he added to that legacy by keeping his menu simple and coming to work in person.
“You couldn’t get French fries or a fountain drink. It was always ‘chips and soda.’ There’s no deep fryer in there; just bags of chips and cans of Coke.”
Opening Bill’s Burgers in 1965, Elwell personally served tens of thousands of burgers over the course of nearly six decades, with a recipe — locally sourced, seasoned ground beef, American cheese, onions and lettuce — that still attracts new fans to this day.
“This is my third time,” said Katia Stewart, standing in line at lunch on a Tuesday afternoon. “It just tastes so good. I don’t know what it is. I’m guessing it’s fresh ingredients.”
Like many of the younger customers at Bill’s, she was only vaguely aware that the man cooking up her burgers was actually the owner, not to mention in his 90s.
While the exact fate of Bill’s is not completely clear yet, Balding hopes that one of Elwell’s five ex-wives, adult children or grandchildren might keep the business open. For now, it’s listed as open Monday through Friday until 4 p.m.
“It’s been around forever,” he said, “and I hope it stays around for a bit longer.”